Walking an Ancient Path

Where have you felt the most spiritual, moved and inspired? Many believers feel spiritually awakened at awe-inspiring holy sites like the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican, Hagia Sophia in Istanbul or Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Within Japan, practitioners of a 1,500-year-old ascetic tradition called Shugendo have no use for this opulence. Instead, they worship among majestic mountains, towering trees and thundering waterfalls. These monks are called yamabushi, an amalgam of the words for mountain and bow down. Shugendo combines the animistic beliefs of Shintoism and the meditative practices of Buddhism.

During a recent visit to Yamagata Prefecture, in northwest Japan, I discovered how, in this setting of harsh winters and dramatic landscapes, the yamabushi developed their belief that enlightenment can be attained through an immersion in nature.

Among their disciplines is the pilgrimage to the three sacred mountains of Dewa in Yamagata. Popular during the Edo period, the pilgrimage symbolizes the passage from life to death and, ultimately, to rebirth.

The first sacred peak, Mount Haguro, is where yamabushi pray for happiness in the present. A veil-like waterfall greeted us on the path of 580 cedar trees, 2,446 stone steps and countless Shinto shrines. Strangely, I felt both invigorated by the climb and serene among the woods and stones. At the 414-meter summit, we passed through the torii gateway to be blessed by priests who ran garlands of paper and bells across our backs as we bowed.

The second mountain beckons the souls of the dead. In contrast to Haguro’s lush forest, Mount Gassan is a place of expansive grassy fields and jade-colored ponds. At 2,000 meters, it is the highest of the three mountains. It represents the past and the worldly clutter and concerns that we should discard. As the wind whipped our faces, I found myself thinking only of the spectacular scenery.

The final stop was Mount Yudono. The 1,500-meter mountain represents the future and is where yamabushi believe one’s soul is reborn. We entered through an enormous torii, after which photos were forbidden. We received our blessings, cleansed our feet and walked delicately across a large, sacred boulder from which a hot spring flowed.

At the end of the steamy path, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view of a luscious green valley, punctuated by the prominent, vermilion torii below. Like the travelers who had taken in the same vista over hundreds of years, I closed my eyes and prayed. The journey was complete.

Fewer than 2,000 yamabushi practice this once-secret tradition today. Yet Dewa’s three sacred mountains are accessible to all. The priests we met believe that those of us in cities need this practice the most. One young priest, who left Tokyo for this itinerant life, told us, “Yamabushi practice is the simple philosophy of placing yourself in nature and feeling—not thinking—in order to rejuvenate back to your true self.”

A secret no longer, Yamagata’s sacred peaks beckon.

Words: Risa Dimacali
Illustration: Tania Vicedo

Japan Heritage Site
Three Mountains of Dewa