Land of the Rising Scrum
Twelve matches, five prefectures (six if you include the misadventure into Fukuoka on the wrong train), 78 tickets, guests from five countries, countless celebratory and consoling beers, numerous trains, planes and automobiles, one wheelchair (commandeered rather than required) and a million or so memories, with one or two more that will enter rugby fan folklore.
But these are mere numbers and don’t illustrate the breathtaking events we witnessed on the field during the recent Rugby World Cup in Japan, as well as the warm embrace of a nation that—up until September—wasn’t viewed as a force in world rugby (despite the “Brighton miracle” win over South Africa four years ago).
I vividly remember waking up in the early hours in 1987 to watch the inaugural Rugby World Cup in New Zealand. Four years later, I attended my first World Cup match in Cardiff, still lamented as one of Wales’ most embarrassing defeats.
As we trudged out of the stadium after a narrow defeat to Western Samoa, the mainly partisan crowd started whistling the Monty Python comedy classic “Always Look on the Bright Side of Life.” The Welsh comedian Max Boyce opined that at least we didn’t have to play the whole of Samoa.
Such highs and lows are symptomatic of the egg-chasing game and they followed me wherever I travelled to watch rugby, be it a British and Irish Lions tour or (another) semifinal defeat for Wales. The positivity and exuberance of the rugby crowd, however, is a constant.
With the 20-team tournament done for another four years, rugby followers and esteemed commentators have been unanimous in their praise for Japan’s outstanding hosting of the event. Many called it the most enjoyable and best World Cup ever. Such compliments remind the longtime Japan residents among us of the country’s depth of culture.
It’s easy to be glib about Japan’s much-touted omotenashi hospitality, but for seven weeks it was on full display across the nation. It was embodied in the thousands of volunteers who lined the streets around stations and stadiums (up to a kilometer from Saitama’s Kumagaya Stadium), provided translation and transport support for fans from overseas, posed for photos and high-fived thousands. And their smiles never wavered.
It was also manifested in Japanese fans’ unconditional support for the underdog, as they cheered on teams to the final whistle in the hope of a single try or an upset. At Toyota Stadium, I saw nearly as many Georgia shirts as Welsh ones.
Japan put on a show like no other. I was happy I could view it all in the company of family and numerous great friends from my school days and the Club, all of whom drove the great maul of rugby fervor ever forwards. Of course, I haven’t even mentioned the magnificent Brave Blossoms. Their accomplishments could fill an evening at Traders’.
Words: Anthony Moore
Illustration: Tania Vicedo
